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0 Comments | The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star, Norfolk, VA, Dec 17, 2009 | by JUDY COWLING

By Judy Cowling

Restaurant critic

The Smithfield Inn Bed & Breakfast Restaurant and Tavern has more than 250 years of tradition and Southern hospitality under its belt. I remember going there as a young girl with my grandparents and feeling honored that they would take me to such a “fancy” place with ironed tablecloth s, real napkins, drapes and oil paintings on the walls.

It stands as a monument to a past era of formal dining. Wide front steps and an awning-covered porch with rocking chairs lead visitors to the front door.

The hostess seated us in the main dining room with high-backed banquettes and portraits of George Washington and Robert E. Lee watching our every move.

We started with the pumpkin bisque ($8) and were pleased with the rich, creamy, slightly sweet soup. Jo n Olinger has been head chef for almost a year, and at 27, has some fresh ideas to keep the inn up to date. His cream soup is made without a roux. It is thickened instead with potato and rice, pureed, then sweetened with a touch of honey and served with a dollop of cinnamon creme fraiche. We also enjoyed the buttery and tender scallop au gratin ($12) made with cream cheese and a light Mornay sauce. The citrus rockfish ($20) was overcooked, and the herbed risotto heavy and dense. The ultimate crabcake ($25) was also a disappointment as it was stringy and bland. The pepper-crusted pork loin ($16) was so tough that we sent it back, but the waitress returned with more of the same. Thank goodness for the excellent bread pudding with sweetened whipped cream ($6). Although the berry cobbler a la mode was rich with fruit, the biscuit topping was unsuccessful.

We returned a week later for lunch to find the place buzzing with diners. My companion tried the truffled fries ($6). A generous portion of crunchy fried-in-canola-oil potatoes arrived in a shallow white bowl tossed with black truffle oil, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and fresh herbs. They were divine and set the stage for two beautifully plated entrees. The Smithfield carbonara ($10) was quietly seasoned and enjoyable. It combined the tastes of red-eye ham, peppered bacon, creamy Mornay sauce, grilled chicken and green peas. The chicken pot pie ($12) was roux-thickened, filled with slow- roasted chicken, carrots, garden peas, celery, onions and fresh chicken stock and crowned by a flaky puff pastry. We happily devoured the accompanying salad of fresh greens with plump bourbon- soaked cherries, sugared pecans, cornbread croutons and a light buttermilk dressing .

Olinger told me he is developing a more Southern-fusion-style menu that will be available the first of the year, and the pepper- crusted pork tenderloin will not be on it. I’m looking forward to the new menu and the changes the youthful chef plans for the inn.

Judy Cowling, flavor@pilotonline.com

while you’re out …

Firehouse Bluegrass It’s a benefit concert down at the firehouse. Show starts at 7:30 p.m. Friday. Fire Station 10, 15020 Carrollton Blvd., Carrollton. (757) 613-6183.

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Rate local restaurants at www.hampton roads.com/restaurants.

Charles Darden CD Release and Holiday Concert The local jazz star performs with Justin Kauflin and others. 7 p.m
porch awnings

Jul 29, 2010

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